Late last year I finally got to visit Scotland, heading to Edinburgh to spend some time with some old friends. This city has long been on my travel bucket list, as its medieval architecture, haunting history and deep rooted passion for the arts tick a lot of my boxes.
I went up at the start of December, meaning the Christmas festivities were in full swing. It proved to be a perfect time to visit Edinburgh, which looks its best when dressed in snow and glittering fairy lights. The Christmas markets were full of cheer and something I was particularly keen to check out - I’m unashamedly a sucker for mulled wine, the scent of hot dogs and stalls packed with overpriced souvenirs, determined to become a connoisseur of sorts. There are walking tours of every flavour in this city that bursts with stories, but I didn’t need to partake as I had my own guides to share with me their (sometimes questionable) local knowledge. Like how the city’s treasured dog, Greyfriar’s Bobby, isn’t buried next to his beloved master as commonly believed, but actually only a few metres from his statue, below a paving slab that looks slightly different to the rest… a somewhat unlikely and underwhelming end to one of Edinburgh’s most famed fables, but an interesting insight into the local rumour-mill.
Scotland’s capital is characterised by its nooks and crannies, each with a story of its own; some spooky, some heartwarming, and always told with feeling. That’s why the arts thrive here, there’s an appetite for storytelling in Edinburgh unlike any place I’ve ever been. Literary greats are honoured in the abundance of book shops; there are galleries galore, big and small, home to world-renowned masterpieces and upcoming classics; and it’s the home of the Fringe Festival, the biggest celebration of art and culture on the planet that brings together global talent in comedy, theatre, spoken word and more in a showcase that draws in millions of people each year. To put that into perspective, only the Olympics and the World Cup pulls a bigger audience.
Most of my time was spent wandering the old streets, dipping into cute stores and cosy cafes. Stockbridge is a prime spot for this sort of thing, with a wealthy village vibe akin to that of Clifton in Bristol or Richmond, London. Nearby is Dean Village and the Waters of Leith, plucked straight out of a Hans Christian Anderson fairytale. Following a beautiful stretch of river along a woodland walk and under looming arches you’ll find a chocolate-box village, curved around a gentle stream. The buildings are an eclectic mix, some recognisably British by design, others more reminiscent of Bavarian lodges. This quiet bubble (likely because of off-season timing - it is a tourist hotspot) in the centre of a bustling city is almost like a film set, absurd amongst the wider surroundings, but the beauty is undeniable, and the pull is felt by locals and visitors alike.
As I was there to visit friends I spent much of my visit catching up on lost time, and just simply being. And with their guidance I was able to a lot of the typical touristy bits, but no trip to Edinburgh would be complete without seeing the mighty Arthur’s Seat up close. I didn’t scale it on this occasion (not a natural born hiker and will find any excuse not to engage in it - this particular day was a bit icy…) but I was quite happy to walk along the foot of the imposing hill during a cool winter’s evening, which turned out to be the perfect place to watch the sunset over the city. Calton Hill was another spectacular sunset spot I found during the week, with incredible panoramas across the skyline.
This was meant to round up my trip, but the weather had other ideas. A late (and eye-rollingly light) sprinkling of snow overnight put a halt on all transport out of Scotland the following morning, which meant my amazing hosts had to put up with me for another night. But even the chaos of rearranging tickets and missed shifts at work couldn’t dampen my week spent exploring Edinburgh, a city that fully deserves its reputation as one of the greatest in the world. I’m already planning my next visit…