After a short surf stop in the tiny town of Agnes Water, I moved on to Noosa, a very pretty location that has the sophistication of a luxury resort with the soul of a surfer’s paradise. Boutique shops, stylish cafes and sleek bars are undeniably a draw to the area, but the highlight for me was the natural beauty of the beaches and national parks that are here in abundance. A walk through forests of eucalyptus and paperbark trees provides an immersive experience within Australian nature; for the eagle-eyed among us, there’s even the chance to spot koalas lounging about in the canopy. Beyond the trees, I came out onto cliff tops with stunning views out to sea, the perfect place for watching dolphins as they pass by the coast.
This is an incredibly popular spot for running and cycling, and beaches such as Tea Tree Bay and Sunshine Beach are particular favourites for surfers. But what most people travel this trail for are the Fairy Pools. Sounds pretty magical, right? Well, perhaps the name sets them up to be a bit of a disappointment, as they are, in essence, just very large rock pools. Having said that, they are quite beautiful, and extremely ‘instagrammable’. When I arrived, there were around six visitors enjoying the pool, which I thought looked a little cramped, but after an hour or so I realised I had been relaxing in relative peace, as a hoard of onlookers had formed to take snaps of the supposedly serene swimming pools. I decided to leave them to their photoshoots and carried on along the coast path to see the viewpoint known as Hell’s Gate. On this sunny spring day it was hardly hellish, but I can only imagine how ferocious the sight must be in stormy weather, with huge waves swelling below and crashing into the steep walls of the cliffs.
For many travellers, Noosa serves as the base for trips over to Fraser Island, the world’s largest sand island. Huge lakes are probably the main attractions on Fraser; I slid down a truly giant sand dune to Lake Wabby, home to tiny fish that nibble at your skin (in a nice way, I suppose), and some catfish who are… not so little. Then there is Lake McKenzie, unsurprisingly the most visited place on the whole island. The sand here is almost as pure as that on Whitehaven beach in the Whitsundays, and the water transitions sharply from vivid turquoise in the shallows to the deepest blue as the sand bank drops off suddenly, giving way to a depth of 22 feet! Other highlights included gliding down Eli Creek, a lazy river of freezing freshwater, and watching an adorable dingo pup have a nose around our cars. There are practically no real roads on Fraser, only long stretches of beach and rough trails through the hinterlands, so the best way to get around is by 4X4. The sheer size of the island means there is a lot of driving to do, but that quickly became part of the fun as we bounced over tree roots and hidden dips, and narrowly missed waves as we sped along the shore.
Camping on the island was certainly a memorable experience. Since landing in Australia, I have been told repeatedly that “everything here wants to kill you”, and Fraser is a prime example. On the first night we had dingos patrol the perimeters of our campsite, and two spiders were removed from tents whose bite could literally corrode your skin. Ah, Australia. It’s safe to say my sleep that night was less than relaxing. However, being all together in such a unique environment brought such a brilliant atmosphere to the group, and we spent each evening chatting, listening to music, and playing card games - and of course, drinking goon.
My only complaint about my time on Fraser was the lack of attention given to the island’s Indigenous significance. This is the ancestral home of the Butchulla tribe, at one time with a population of thousands until the Europeans began colonisation. Indian Head, a headland popular with tourists for its panoramic views across the island, actually has an extremely dark past; in 1851, Butchulla people, potentially hundreds and mostly women and children, were led up to Indian Head and forced to jump to their deaths. This massacre is one of the most important moments in Fraser’s history, yet there is nothing on Indian Head to commemorate or inform visitors of the event, and our tour guide even seemed hesitant to tell us about it. It felt somewhat immoral to me to be taking selfies on a site where mourning is probably more appropriate, yet that is exactly what occurs here every day, and will continue until the Butchulla tribe receive the recognition, and apologies, for the atrocities that happened to their people on their land.
It seems a shame to end this post on such a sombre note, especially seeing as I did have a really fun few days on Fraser Island. However, the Aboriginal history is a reason I came to Australia in the first place, so to me it felt important to highlight. And I don’t believe acknowledging the past has to take away from the joy that can be had in the present, it just creates a more truthful and fulfilling experience. Just a note from a happy traveller to the tour guides of Australia!
Stay tuned, next stop: Brisbane.