I can’t believe I’m writing this already, the time here has flown by! I wasn’t sure what to expect when I arrived in Cairns, not knowing much about the city itself, but it’s been the most amazing starting point. Every day has been so different to the next, with rainforest walks, diving in the Great Barrier Reef, mixed in with some botanical gardens and lots of wildlife-watching. Firstly, the people here have been so kind and welcoming, taking the time to talk to me when I’ve been on my own, giving me advice about all the best places their country has to offer. It’s no wonder why this city has such a laid-back atmosphere, which flooded over me as soon as I landed, and so far hasn’t left me. Secondly, it’s beautiful! Set by a lagoon with a backdrop of mountains, carpeted with rainforest, and with wildlife by the bucket-load, it would be easy to spend hours on the esplanade admiring the scenery. I’ve never been to a city with such diverse wildlife blending with urban living, and so far I have been treated to countless bats flying by the balcony each night, and giant pelicans soaking up the sun by the boardwalk.
On my second day I took a tour of the Daintree Rainforest and Cape Tribulation, travelling north from Cairns. To kick off the experience, we were taken on a cruise along the Daintree River, hoping to spot some of the resident crocodiles. Almost immediately we found one of the largest crocs known in the river, chillingly named Scarface. We watched him float beneath mangroves for a while, taking pictures and videos excitedly as he remained unmoving in his sheltered spot. He began to move, swimming silently through the water and then slowly disappearing below the surface. Cue involuntary cries from everyone on board, shuddering at the eery sight. As we journeyed down the river we were incredibly lucky to spot at least 4 more crocodiles, a real win considering the unpredictability of wildlife watching. From there we headed to Cape Tribulation, discovering the brilliant white sand bordered by towering palm trees, making it easily one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen. Next, we took a dip in a natural, freshwater pool and then wandered through the rainforest, spotting a red-bellied black snake slithering beneath the boardwalk we were crossing. Then it was time to head home, with a few stops at the best lookout points along the way, as well as a chance sighting of a cassowary; a large bird with a black body, blue face and boney structure protruding from it’s skull, like something straight out of Jurassic Park (with the potential to be just as deadly). It was a long day, 12 hours overall, including a lot of driving, but it was worth every mile for the memories alone.
Then came reef day. I could barely contain my excitement as I arrived at the boat on a sunny Monday morning, ready to see the Great Barrier Reef up close and in person! This is something I have dreamed of doing for years, and top of my Aussie to-do list. It was a slight moral dilemma, as I know intense tourism hasn’t been good for the overall health of the ecosystem, so I knew if I was going to go it would be with an eco certified company who took the reef and its inhabitants seriously. I was happy to discover that it was mandatory to pay a $20 reef tax fee, which every boat travelling out to the area must cover in order to be licensed. A price well worth paying for the survival of one of the world’s most diverse and important habitats. So, decision made, it was time to head out. The ride out there was far from smooth sailing, the boat rocking from front to back for pretty much the entirety of the 1 and a half hour journey. I managed to keep sickness at bay by staying upstairs in the fresh air, but it was clear I was one of the lucky ones when, as we arrived at our first destination, I ventured below deck. Lots of pale faces and paper bags putting a dampener on the eager spirits from earlier. However, as the boat anchored and finally came to stillness, everyone’s stomachs settled and excitement built once again. The water was bright turquoise and crystal clear, and I couldn’t wait to get in.
I was signed up to do a dive, but I was in a later group so had time to snorkel first. Schools of tiny fish were the first thing I saw, then coral and anemones, and then fish of all shapes, sizes and colours. I watched parrot fish munch on the algae covering the reef, and followed a perfect line of cuttlefish, transfixed by their gentle movements and intricate markings. I have no idea how long I was in the water for, but soon enough it was time for my dive. Having only done a pool dive before, I had an idea of what it would feel like to be breathing under water but had no experience in a proper ocean setting. My instructor was brilliant, taking myself and the two others in my group through every step with patience and skill. And it was incredible! We swam down to the reef floor where we were surrounded by tropical fish, then taken to a small anemone, home to Nemo himself. We began to see from the perspective of the fish, noticing the finer details of the coral, how they differ from one variety to another, and feeling the weightlessness of being immersed in the water. Back on the boat, and onto the next location - Sudbury sand cay. This was my favourite out of the two, because I saw turtles! I even swam with them for a while. It was one of the most magical experiences of my life, seeing the turtle fly through the water so gracefully. I also found a blue-spotted ray and saw so many more marine species, but the turtles topped it all. I returned to the boat physically drained but completely elated. Undoubtedly, it was one of the best days of my life to date, and it’ll be a tough one to beat.
I feel so incredibly fortunate to have begun my travels with such unique adventures, in such a beautiful part of the world, and it has just made me so much more excited for what’s still to come.
Stay tuned, next stop: Magnetic Island.